Far from the popular image of West Pokot County as a largely semi-arid, pastoral region lies a remarkably different landscape where green farms stretch across cool highlands, dairy cows dominate homesteads and Irish potatoes thrive almost all-year-round.

Welcome to Pokot South Sub-County, popularly known as Lelan, an area whose climate and agricultural potential have earned it an affectionate description among residents as the “Singapore of West Pokot.”

The highland region is characterised by steep slopes, escarpments and remarkably low temperatures, creating a climate that contrasts sharply with the drier conditions associated with other parts of the county.

The landscape remains green for much of the year, supporting a mixture of livestock and crop farming.

Residents jokingly describe Lelan as a natural freezer, saying its unusually cold conditions can keep fresh milk from fermenting for days under ordinary conditions.

The cool climate has helped turn dairy farming into one of the area’s major economic activities. Milk coolers have been introduced to enable farmers to preserve their produce and add value before it reaches the market.

Dairy companies’ trucks are a common sight on the roads, collecting milk from farmers for delivery to processing plants.

The area’s relatively sparse population and favourable climate provide ample space for livestock farming, while improved winding road infrastructure has opened farmers to wider markets.

Isaac Lomunge, a resident, recalls that accessing the area was once a major challenge before the upgrading of the Kapenguria-Lelan road through Kabichbich, the Pokot South Sub-County headquarters.

“This place used to be pathetic before the upgrading of the main road from Kapenguria to Tapach via Kabichbich. There were only a handful of passenger vehicles coming this way, but with the tarmac road we now have more than 10 Probox vehicles making several trips to the area,” says Lomunge.

He says improved transport has made it easier for farmers to move their produce to markets in Kapenguria, Chepareria and other parts of the county, while large quantities of milk are transported directly to processing factories elsewhere.

Lomunge says milk prices have also improved following the introduction of clearer measurement systems, compared with the past when farmers often sold their produce cheaply.

Pokot South’s agricultural wealth is not confined to dairy farming. The area is home to some of the county’s finest Merino sheep, a fact that has attracted a wool-shearing factory at Kapsangar Market.

It is one of the area’s lesser-known economic treasures. Despite the large number of sheep reared in West Pokot, however, mutton remains surprisingly uncommon in local butcheries, including those in Kapenguria town where there is a potentially large market for the meat.

Goat meat remains the preferred choice for many residents.

“Most of the sheep are reared for sale to other parts of the country. Traders from other counties come here to source their stock. Mutton is rarely consumed within the county, even though sheep are widely reared,” says Lomunge.

For a county often associated with pastoralism, Pokot South offers another striking picture, potato farming that feeds a county.

Irish potato farming is widespread, with the crop providing an important source of income and food for households.

The potatoes are supplied to markets across West Pokot and are also transported to other parts of the country.

Trucks from as far away as Nairobi make their way into the highlands to purchase potatoes directly from farmers.

Along the road, Probox vehicles ferry farm inputs to the region, reflecting the near-continuous cycle of planting and harvesting.

Virtually every suitable piece of cultivated land appears to be under potatoes, with farmers also benefiting from subsidised government fertiliser programmes.

Pyrethrum farming is another important activity in the area, further demonstrating the diversity of an economy that extends well beyond livestock.

The area’s natural environment adds to its appeal, being christened as a land of clean water and cedar.

Streams snake through the highlands, carrying clear, sparkling water and supporting communities and agricultural activities downstream.

Cedar trees are also prominent, with efforts under way to conserve the valuable forest resources.

The combination of fertile soils, reliable water sources and a cool climate has made Pokot South one of the county’s most productive agricultural zones.

But there is another feature that sets the area apart — one that has little to do with farming.

According to records from the West Pokot County Liquor and Licensing Board, Pokot South has no licensed alcohol outlet, making it the only sub-county without licensed alcohol outlets in the county.

The situation is the result of a long-standing understanding among residents that alcohol-selling establishments should not be allowed to operate in the area.

The arrangement has survived for decades despite attempts by sections of the youth and business community to have liquor outlets licensed.

During public participation forums, however, elders under the stewardship of a former Paramount Chief Mzee John Mwok, have consistently opposed the proposals.

They argue that allowing alcohol outlets would have negative consequences for the community and could undermine the agricultural economy.

County Liquor Licensing Board Director Joel Amochir confirms that no alcohol premises have been licensed in Pokot South for a long time.

“It is only this year that we have had licensing of pool shops after agitation from the youthful population, although their existence had been opposed by the elderly population, who seem very conservative about their economic trends,” says Amochir.

The liquor board official, however, says the absence of licensed outlets does not mean alcohol is completely absent from the area.

He told a multi-agency meeting in Kapenguria that illicit brews, including chang’aa, are still produced and sold clandestinely in some parts of the sub-county.

Areas such as Tapach and forested sections have been identified as places where the illicit trade occurs.

Amochir called on multi-agency teams to map such areas and target them through Rapid Results Initiative operations.

A visit to several trading centres in Pokot South reveals an unusual social experiment showing a striking difference from other parts of West Pokot: there are no obvious licensed alcohol outlets.

At public gatherings and community meetings, elders continue to play a strong role in maintaining social order.

Residents say anyone who wants to drink alcohol is free to travel to neighbouring areas where licensed outlets operate, before returning home.

The elders’ position is that alcohol consumption should not be allowed to become a commercial activity within Pokot South.

“Anyone is free to take alcohol, but not from public places within the area,” is the prevailing position among elders who seem to have been joined by their youngsters.

The county liquor board’s figures underline just how different Pokot South is from other parts of West Pokot.

According to Amochir, West Pokot Sub-County has 110 licensed alcohol outlets and 23 unlicensed, followed by Kipkomo with 35 licensed and eight unlicensed, Kacheliba with 14 licensed and nine unlicensed, Pokot Central with 25 licensed and five unlicensed, and Pokot North with eight licensed and three unlicensed outlets.

Pokot South, by contrast, remains at zero licensed alcohol outlets.

With the changing times the alcohol-free policy is, however, facing pressure from a younger generation and business interests seeking to exploit what they see as an untapped commercial opportunity.

The licensing of pool shops this year is one indication that the once rigid position may be slowly changing.

Yet the elders remain determined to protect what they regard as a social and economic model that has served the community for generations.

For now, Pokot South remains a curious contradiction within West Pokot — a cool highland where milk and potatoes flourish, Merino sheep provide an important source of income, clear streams flow through green landscapes and cedar forests survive, while licensed alcohol outlets remain conspicuously absent.

It is perhaps this combination of climate, agriculture, natural resources and an unusual social compact that makes Pokot South one of West Pokot’s least-known but most distinctive destinations adding to the strength of referring to the county as “Place of Hidden Treasures”.

By Richard Muhambe